Jamaica

Copyright 2009 by Wheel Me On...

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Landscape of Ocho Rios below hill
Photography by Bill Remeika

It had been 28-years since visiting Jamaica, spending over a week on the island and traveling throughout many areas brought a keen interest to learn what had changed with expectations of growth throughout the island. Time would not allow exploring the island in depth as what I had previously; it could only be hoped the things not seen on this visit, remained the same or with improvements making them better. Wheels for mobility were not used when last visiting Jamaica, the consequence of unlimited travel pursued a wide array of interests when here before and this visit would be limiting for two reasons; first the wheels and second, the time allowed before returning to the cruise ship. There is only one way to bring the modern day experience to our readership and that is by simply sharing the experience from the person who made the venture and collating with a knowledgeable resident for facts and history.

Capturing Ocho Rios during a time it would appear the sky is overcast and getting ready to rain, the hours spent in Jamaica were well worth the venture for many passengers who arrived on another cruise ship seen in the photo above. The "tell-tale" photo later brought more insight and answered many questions as to the docked position of the cruise vessel that brought me to shore.
Julia Hollenbeck


"Out of Many, One People"

Welcome to Ocho Rios appears on the side of a hill at the old dock
Photography by Julia Hollenbeck

Reynolds Bauxite Facility in Ocho Rios

Cruising has its merits, despite limited time in Ports of Call, and probably one of the most enjoyed is the ability to travel by sea which brings a greater value with the end result of having several ports to visit depending on the cruise selected. Ultimately, this allows visiting different lands, seeing and doing different things and learning cultures or customs of different nationalities. Of course, one could always extend their stay at most any port and continue their journey when the vessel returns a few days later, but a cruise can be very satisfying with just two or three Ports of Call at different places. Cruising into Ocho Rios was interesting and totally different than what expected.

In the booming days of exporting bauxite, the old pier later became known as the "Reynolds" pier who was the mining company for bauxite, the most important aluminum ore consisting of several minerals in the form of clay. This site later caught the eye of producers and was used during the era of the James Bond movies, ("blown up; Doctor No"), and is now called the James Bond Pier, used only when there are two ships in port because the Cruise Ship Pier cannot hold two large ships at the same time. (The subject of the Cruise Ship Pier is addressed later in this article.)

Crew Members and Security begin prepreations for debarking passengers Steps instead of a ramp are deployed Passengers leaving vessel pointed to the left

Passengers begin disappearing around the cornerAt precisely 7 AM (CST) Crew Members deployed the ramp and began setting the stage for passengers to leave the vessel. The procedure taking them about fifteen minutes was interesting to watch from the promenade deck while waiting for my escort and scheduled tour appointment with World Tours & Cruises 2004 Limited. While waiting, I wondered what I would be shown and where the sandy beach I had last seen from the Island Village had disappeared too; where "Jack-in-the-Bush" (a man resembling a bush) would suddenly move and startle the tourists bringing motion of dance close to them.

As in many lands throughout the Caribbean, islanders often developed creative ways to make a living instead of begging for a hand-out. Tourists would take a picture of "Jack-in-the-Bush' with their camera and leave him a dollar in a coconut leaf weaved basket sitting near him in the sand; he spoke not a word, just quietly collapsed back into a bush until he felt like moving to begin another dance to the delight of anyone watching. Cruise ships could be seen docked from the resort and near the roadway; there was the "Island Village" with vendors selling their handmade products to earn a living for their families within a sandy area leading to the beach and a restaurant of the resort. The dock appeared changed; I could see no village or sandy shore and passengers walked off to the left once reaching the dock and then disappeared around a corner.

Tour Guide Jango making certain his passenger was comfortableAt approximately 9 AM, my journey back to Jamaica began with Bobs Ferro, Senior Assistant Purser, on the Island Princess escorting me around the corner of the dock to meet "Jango" George Wilson, (later discovered an exceptional guide with over 25-years of experience), who would be taking me to places of interest on the island.

Belinda Nash speaks with Jango before leaving on an appointmentImmediately after meeting Jango, I met Belinda Nash, Director of Operations, World Tours & Cruises 2004 Limited, from Ocho Rios, Jamaica, who arranged the tours with Jango. After entering the rear lift of a high top van, Belinda Nash provided several pamphlets of places to see that would be accessible, but the first thing I asked was whether or not "Jack-in-the-Bush" still remained in Ocho Rios. At first, she looked at me quizzically, and then smiled and said something to Jango. Turning back to me she said, "Jango will see what he can learn". Unfortunately, another matter had risen and Belinda Nash was not able to join us on this venture, but later became a wealth of information for the completion of this article.

Peering in from the side door of the vehicle, Jango looked at me and asked how I knew about "Jack-in-the-Bush", and I quickly explained my visit of years past and having the opportunity of seeing and meeting him and then taking his photo. He nodded his head and soon after, got inside the driver's seat (on the right side of the vehicle) and started the engine. On our way to our first stop, Jango talked about the James Bond series that were filmed at the dock, thus now referred to as the "James Bond" pier. In less than 15-minutes, we reached our first destination.

Coyaba Gardens

Tour Guide standing in tropical settingThe beautiful gardens exploded with brilliant flowers and tropical ferns, shrubs and trees. Many varieties of Begonias, Ginger and Hibiscus were seen as pictured below. With a knowledgeable tour guide named Naldie Hardware, who worked exclusively at Coyaba Gardens and Mahoe Falls, this was a tour promising the unexpected with accessibility throughout the majority of the facility. This journey through the tropical gardens did not stop here; instead it exploded into additional exciting sights and other worlds in nature's settings.

Naldie Hardware provided continued description of plants, flowers and trees, bringing knowledge to plants that were actually edible and others that were poisonous. Many of the plants and flowers very recognizable, but this tour was without a doubt one of the best I had ever participated in simply because of the interest Naldie offered to his spectators. (Photo of Naldie Hardware on right.)

Whereas I recognized most plants, there were several I had not seen before, making the journey through Coyaba Gardens very interesting while realizing the tropical climate here offered plants not necessarily grown in other tropical places. It would have been very easy for me to remain in just the gardens, soaking up the nature of growth around me, but there were additional things to see.

Colors of Ginger as described in text below White Single Hibiscus with five petals

White Begonias shown in the photo on the left are but one variety of several growing within tropical climates and in many places in North America. In the middle photo, shades of red, pink and white Ginger bleed from one another as their tightly arranged roots intermix in an explosion of colored flowers the same as humans. The white Hibiscus is recognized as a "single" Hibiscus and only uncommon with its color. There are many varieties and colors of the Hibiscus, but what many people may not know, is they only bloom one single day, creating a florist to pick them as a mature bud for flower arranging.

Mohoe Falls

An all inclusive journey leading to an amazing waterfall, gardens exploding with beautiful green voltage of ferns and other tropical plants demanding shade with the waking bridge supporting accessibility and providing safety to persons without disabilities as close as what their means allowed. Naldie Hardware took his work very seriously; explaining plants and flowers along the way to a smooth boardwalk providing a safe descend from a high point of the falls to the bottom and then seeing Mahoe Falls flow down its natural setting into a small pool of water marked as being four-feet deep.

A smooth descending ramp made of wood leads to the bottom of the hill Looking up at Mahoe Falls Water from the falls cascading into a pool

Ysassis Lookout Point
(Formally Bird's Nest Lookout)

As Jango and I separated ourselves from dozens of other visitors, the answer to an unasked question first wondered before even leaving the cruise docking area all seemed to come together at this third destination Jango took me too, appropriately originally named "Bird's Nest Lookout", the area now provided an accessible boardwalk and was renamed to "Ysassis Lookout Point", after the last Spanish Governor of Jamaica .The reality was seeing Ocho Rios in the distance and the beach I could not find, an optical illusion later discovered in another passenger's photography making the same trip to Coyaba Gardens at Mahoe Falls on a separate tour.

Carnival cruise ship docked at Ocho Rios Ocho Rios Resort closest to the right of the old dock
Photography by Julia Hollenbeck

In the left photo, the Island Princess is docked below the mountain and out of view behind another cruise vessel shown above, and in the right photo Ocho Rios Beach and hotel resorts are visible. While these two photos are side to side, if one could see the scene all in one, the truth of what could not be seen would now be visible. With absolutely no doubt, the "Island Village" is still there to the left of the large hotel shown and Turtle Beach with Jamaican's selling their exquisite handmade crafts of beautiful wood carvings and other things they make. On a personal level, I would like to believe they still operate from stalls set up in the sand and not a paved roadway but like most places over time, many things change.

The pier in front of the resort on Ocho Rios Beach
Photography by Jan Ketonen

The "illusion" of cruise vessels docked in front of the hotel property is actually not an illusion, but a matter of documented fact. The tee shaped pier is indeed the main Cruise Ship Pier and is still used for cruise vessels, offering a fantastic scenic view from the beach with the ocean behind the vessel(s). The dock still remains in front of the resort property and was discovered after looking at additional photography from Jan Ketenon.

Viewing the scene while approaching the harbor area, the Cruise Ship Pier is located to the left of the James Bond Pier with the main pier located in front of Turtle Beach, (which is actually a public beach), and the Sunset Jamaica Grande Resort & Spa. (In years previous, this property was InterContinental Hotel, then Hyatt Regency and Sheraton.)

With progress and time, the Ocean Village Shopping Centre stands within a large concrete plaza and contains the Ocho Rios Craft Market where one will find a supermarket and several souvenir stores. The Island Village along with the sandy paths and covered huts is replaced with a newer "Island Village" housing the only cinema in Ocho Rios, Margaritaville, in-bond stores and other additional souvenir shops and is located within easy walking distance of the Main Cruise Ship Pier.

If one is on the hill in-between the two hotel properties, or on a particular part of the beach within the cove, the curvature of the coastline makes it appear cruise ships dock off to the side when docked at the James Bond Pier. This perspective is correct in present times, but only if the Cruise Ship Pier is not used due to the size of the vessel and/or other arriving vessels. The docking procedure originally seen (28-years ago) remains unchanged, but will not allow two large vessels at the Cruise Ship Pier. Nonetheless, my earlier statement of "totally different than what expected" for docking procedures remains as wrote. Unfortunately, passengers do not dictate or predict which dock will be used. On the other hand, there were benefits to docking at the James Bond Pier. It was difficult to select the best photography for this sequence in lieu of two good friends both taking basically the same photography of the scene. (See above Photo by going Back to Top)

Returning to Coyaba Gardens

Three tiered water pedestal with rock wall behindProbably one of the more interesting sights for me was seeing the walls made of stone, knowing full well the hours it would take several workers to build. In one area, a water fountain seemed lonely and begging to be turned into a wishing well. (Photo on left)

Tour Guide Jango leaning against lava water purifierJango patiently waited while leaning against an authentic lava rock used for purifying water, a tradition now nearly extinct, but rain water still flows in this magnificent valley through lava beds and rocks. (Photo on right)

Purchasing machine stitched embroidered tee shirts and handmade bracelets from Vendors in this immediate area gave me yet another pleasant surprise while speaking with a craftsman and purchasing a small wood handcrafted bowl with a lid from him and then engaged in conversation of my trip in the past.

Twenty-eight years ago, at the Bamboo Village next to the Trelawny Beach Resort, I purchased several large carved heads from a vendor named Ken Brown. After telling the vendor my story of these purchases, he relayed he knew Ken Brown and that he now had his own shop; I asked him to let Ken Brown know of my visit as we had wrote and later emailed one another for several years.

Colorful peacock looking at old cannon Another part of the falls flowing through a small valley Tropical plants surrounding small area near cement ramp

There was more to see and most unexpected was a peacock who seemed to be quizzically starting at a British Army Cannon dating back to 1720, (earmarked as being from Lyssons, Saint Thomas), beneath the shade of a large tree, as seen in the photo on the left. Then Jango took me to another area where fresh rain water flowed through a small valley, naturally purifying the water to some extent by streaming through the rocks. (Photo in middle) We made our way to another area where I was able to scale a small ramp and entered into yet another very tropical area. (Photo on right)

Aquarium window at the side and next to ground Fish Pond with natural spring water

An interesting view with an aquarium fashioned glass window (Left Photo) allowing people to see the natural aquarium filled with Koi carp, mullet, snappers and turtles, swimming beneath the surface of the shallow pond especially made for them with fresh water naturally changing and cleansing the pond daily. (Photo on Right)

Red Poinsetta Bush Pinkish white/green Anthurium Jango holding small white flower with 9 petals

Heading to the vehicle was nostalgic while admiring the poinsettia bush, (Left Photo), beautiful Anthurium, (Middle Photo), and the small flower Jango held in his hand for me to photograph. (Right Photo). The flower reminded me as a child, but now the name of it escapes memory; the flower could be used as a whistle if knowing how to do it, contained a sweet sap and delightful scent.

Milford Riverhead flows under a wood gate Narrow width of Milford Riverhead Aging rock wall several feet high

The top of a type of palm tree fans out in the shape of a fanMilford Riverhead is fed by watersheds extending south for fifteen miles and filtered by limestone formations, rising at the rate of two million gallons of water daily. (Photo on Right) Even with all the beautiful flowers, ferns and other foliage, my interest piqued with seeing the natural flow of water and walls made by hand with stones found in this unique aged area that is now open to the public with excellent tours provided. Indeed, there were new attractions to see, after 28-years and where else would someone have the opportunity to see this magnificent blooming tree?large banyan tree

Sadly, but fulfilled with new insight, we left Mahoe Falls and the Coyaba Gardens and began a leisurely descend winding through turns along the road. Close to the noon hour (CST) Jango stopped to show me a large Banyan tree where swings hung from long ropes attached to a main branch and gentlemen quietly sat. (Photo on Right)

Shortly after noon, he stopped the van again, next to a school yard with a chain link fence. The children were surely on a lunch break and scurrying about the pavement, all dressed in matching uniforms while adults supervised the youngsters.

He droved another fifteen minutes along the winding road and then pulled over to stop. To my surprise, he knew exactly where to find my first request.

"Jill-in-the-Bush"

Jango deployed the lift, unfastened the tie downs and invited me outside. Next to the street, a Jamaican woman and her family had tables filled with an assortment of treasures, but it was her daughter who caught my surprise. "Jack-in-the-Bush could not be here today for you," she began to explain, as her daughter stood quietly next to her. "But I found Jill-in-the-Bush and she will dance and sing for you".

A young girl dressed in green ferns and bright colored flowers with her arms out-stretched Same girl with her arms down at her sides Same girl with her mother standing next to her on left

Without further ado, the arms of Jill-in-the-Bush began to move away from her body as if a bird in flight, while she twirled and danced, singing a song in unison with her mother. When her dance had finished, her mother explained that everyday a fresh set of greenery made primarily of ferns and an assortment of fresh flowers, were attached to the heavy frame and headdress that fit over "Jill's" shoulders. It was an unexpected visit and an honorable occasion after learning Jill-in-the-Bush continued the legacy of Jack-in-the-Bush. Jango knew exactly where she would be along the winding road while heading for yet another surprise.

Jango drinks coconut milk from a coconut Jango offers me fresh young coconut to eat Jango tips his head back and drinks the last of his coconut milk

Jango earlier asked me about coconuts and I explained to him that I grew up in the Hawaiian Islands and thought there was nothing better than soft "baby" coconut. Soon after, Jango pulled off the road again and approached three men in the shade of a tree with a table clearly displaying coconuts. He returned to the van, extending his hand with a fresh coconut neatly trimmed away from its shell with the soft coconut "meat" and a napkin. (Photo in Middle) The coconut was delicious and probably the first "baby" coconut eaten in a decade. After it was devoured, he returned with another coconut for me, with a straw to drink the milk from inside. Standing outside of the lift van, Jango drank the milk from his coconut while I took his photos, clearly showing coconut milk is good to the last drop! (Photos on left and right)

At approximately the same time, Bill and Rose Remeika, passengers from the same cruise, were off doing something they had never done before:

Bill and Rose Remeika riding camel


Rose had told me the night before during dinner that they were going to ride a camel while in Jamaica. "A camel? When did Jamaica start having camel rides?" I wanted to know. Rose's response was she didn't know, but she was by golly, going on the camel ride!

Unlike what one might not consider exactly a Jamaica experience, it certainly captured the attention of many tourists with a large array of other things to do in addition to riding a camel.

Even though this was not (perhaps) something exactly accessible for PWD requiring mobility devices, I thought it interesting and included photos taken of the two of them riding a camel. Research for this odd happening in Jamaica brought information that there was only one camel ride on the island, apparently established in 2005.

Rose Remeika walking with donkey


Additionally, a photo of Rose Remeika walking with what appears to be a donkey is shown above but I have not a clue as to where she obtained the gorgeous hat or if she stole it from the donkey.

Dunn's River Falls & Park

Exploding into a new look and greater access for PWD using wheelchairs, Dunn's River Falls and Park now offered paved roads, brightly colored buildings to explore with some having access and a platform to overlook the falls. This was certainly not the same view 28-years ago, when arriving in what resembled a converted school bus and entering a dirt path. Progress was indeed made, including an accessible bathroom.


The brightly painted buildings pulled my interest to wheel up the paved road and take a few photos of what could easily be seen. There were more building than what is shown here, but the fact remained, the falls were beckoning as well and they were the most important part of this stop, so I returned rather quickly while Jango waited so patiently.

From a smooth wooden platform photography taken reminded me that some things in life simply do not change, and in this case, no change was good. The tradition of walking in uniform, holding hands to form a chain while following a guide to conquer the trek from a low point up to a higher point remained. It was more than nostalgia for me and I found myself reminiscing with Jango while watching persons walk on top of large rocks, many wearing rubber soled shoes, simply was not done in years past.

A long chain of people walk up to the falls The falls of Dunn's River One of the entry areas people may begin the climb

Back then, in 1981, there remained the tradition of bare feet slipping and sliding on the slippery rocks while laughing at one self and others who fell into the cool water. There was no doubt it was now a matter of safety and common sense, but it still seemed a little odd to me while I watched the parade of people. In the photo on the left, a large group of people are walking toward the falls while holding hands. The middle photo, taken by Jan Ketonen, shows a better view of the falls from an area below the platform I was situated on and the photo on the right shows an entry area for people to begin the climb.

Jango waiting next to van with lift downToo soon, it was 1:30 in the afternoon (CST) and Jango said we needed to head back to the ship. He let down the lift of the van and waited patiently for me to take one last photo of him.

Island Princess cruise ship While approaching the Reynolds bauxite installation, from an opposite direction, I suddenly saw part of the cruise ship I had arrived on docked at the James Bond Pier. Jango willingly pulled to a stop, backed up, and then took a photo for me with my camera.

Then I spied the cannons, at least four in a row - obviously a fort from years gone by, but we were now at the end of our journey and out of time. Jango willingly quickly backed up the vehicle again and snapped the photo of the fort.

I learned this structure built in the late 17th Century is called Ocho Rios Fort and has a threatening appearance to unwanted visitors from the sea.

Row of four cannons aimed at the ocean from an old fortReinforcement of the Ocho Rios Fort occurred in 1780 while fearing an attack from the French, but it was not until 1795 when an enemy vessel appeared off the coast of Ocho Rios, spied the cannons, and then made an attack at Mammee Bay.

In recent years the Ocho Rios Fort was rebuilt by Reynolds Jamaica. Two of the original cannons remain and two more cannons, which defended Mammee Bay in 1795, are proudly in position at the Ocho Rios Fort.

The fort is directly in front of what was once called "the old port" and is today known as the "James Bond Pier".

In truth, there are two piers functioning in Ocho Rios for cruise vessels and the mystery of how these ports and docks are used is resolved with sincere appreciation to Belinda Nash who provided the photo below of a Princess Cruise vessel docked at the Main Cruise Pier in Ocho Rios.


Princess Cruise Vessel docked at Main Cruise Pier
Princess Cruise Vessel Docked at the Main Cruise Pier

Jango standing next to van with lift openJango pulled into the parking area for the James Bond Pier and lowered the lift after undoing the tie down straps to the wheelchair. He gave me clear directors in order to return back to the vessel and we bid each other farewell. (Photo on right of Jango standing next to one of the vans with a rear lift.)

As I returned to the cruise ship, it occurred to me that Jango is undoubtedly one of the very best tour guides having lived all of his life in Jamaica and if you would like to hear him sing the favorite Jamaican songs he is so well known for, he will be happy to oblige you!

The major important thing I learned about Jango is he always adds at least one extra surprise during one of his tours of Jamaica. There are ten wheelchair accessible vehicles in their fleet and one of them can carry as many as four wheelchairs at the same time.

Belinda Nash with tropical setting in backgroundAdditionally, through this travel I learned the Jamaican's expression of "No Problem, Mon" is often spoken and practiced whenever asking for a favor.

While not directly hearing these words spoken by Belinda Nash, her willingness to oversee this article was accurate and complete, obviously states the hospitality and sincerity of Jamaica Island flavor; the same as experienced throughout the entire ten day cruise. (Photo on left of Belinda Nash.)

When mixing it all together, this is what encourages persons with disabilities to seek perfect cruise lines and ports of call offering accessibility the same as what is offered to persons without disabilities.

In some scenarios, not everything may be perfect for land tours and the most important part of the travel remains the voyage.

For More Information on Tours Contact

Maxi Taxi Association
For the Physically Challenged
"Jango" George Wilson
Email
Telephone 876-544-7118

World Tours & Cruises 2004 Limited
Belinda Nash
Director of Operations
Email
Ocho Rios, Jamaica, W.I.
Telephone 876-974-5009


Disclaimer: Wheel Me On... or any Board Director of the non-profit organization and/or other person involved in creating this web page are not liable for any damages arising from content, suggestions, or mode of travel and have no obligation or liability for any claim based upon content of written material. Information provided on this web page is literary expressions to encourage persons with disabilities (PWD) to travel, so long as the PWD is capable of traveling and no intent of prescription or warranty is contained herein. PWD are encouraged to practice safety for their own physical requirements; tour companies, drivers and guides are not responsible for medical equipment or supplies.

The WMO Rating for this tour is posted in Members Only

January 2009 Accessible Tours to Five Countries Completed!

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